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Frog Vipers

for @SuddenlyJon

Drag to turn it.

Eight frames, one 148 mm hinge span. Print the gauge before the frame. The drawing is the build.

Frame

The poster wrap. One pane, full rim.

Styles

The poster pair. Gunmetal frame, cyan shield.

Frame colorLens colorLens darknessHolographic

Saves the stage as frog-vipers-tryon.png. Not a measurement.

What to print and what to buy

Frog Vipers, for John. You print the frame. You cut the lens. The frame is ASA, or PA12 if you want the hinge to flex. The lens is 2 mm optical polycarbonate, UV in the sheet. Nothing here is a finished pair.

Print these

Frame and both temples

One spool of ASA. Use that same spool for the front and the arms.

ASA holds color and shape in sun. Same spool so the hinge does not bind. Skip PLA. It softens in a hot car.

Flex upgrade, instead of ASA

PA12 nylon. Dry the spool. Enclose the printer. Do not mix it with ASA.

Tougher at the hinge, and it flexes. Uncoated nylon chalks in sun, so give it a clear UV coat if the pair lives outside.

Nose pads, two

TPU 95A. Print the pad file twice.

The saddle in the frame is sized for this stem. The beard is not the pad.

Fit gauge

Print the gauge flat, no supports, before the frame.

148 mm is the nominal hinge span. The gauge is the measurement. This screen is not.

Ghost frame only

Natural PETG, if this pair stays indoors.

The indoor look. Easier to print. It is not the sun frame. Do not use it for Cyan Shield, Night Grind, or Armor Olive.

Buy these, then cut or fasten them

Lens

2.0 mm solid optical polycarbonate sheet, UV-stable in the plastic. Not channel sheet. Not acrylic. A piece at least 160 × 60 mm. Hard-coated if that sheet is offered.

This is the lens. UV filtering belongs in the sheet. Acrylic cracks when you spring it. A printed lens is not a lens.

Smoke and amber tint

Buy the sheet already tinted. Gray for Night Grind. Amber for Armor Olive.

The color is in the plastic, so the edge matches the middle and it does not peel.

Poster cyan

Clear UV polycarbonate, then cyan film on the outside face, trimmed at the edge.

Sheet in this cyan is rare. Film is the poster color, and it is the weaker tint. It can peel.

Polarizer

Linear polarizing film, at least 160 × 50 mm. Not a circular polarizer.

Glare film. It goes on the inside of the sheet, 1.5 mm inside the edge. The build tab has the axis check.

Picture, if you want one

Clear film printed with your picture. Stick it inside, under the polarizer.

The holographic look on the screen is the preview. The plastic sheet stays on the outside.

Pins

Two stainless M2×10 socket screws and two nylock nuts. A clean 1.75 mm filament pin is the backup.

The hinge is a vertical pin. Do not glue the arms on.

Slicer

Nozzle / layer: 0.4 mm / 0.20 mm. 0.16 mm if the hinge faces look stepped.
Walls: 5. At this thickness the frame is nearly solid.
Infill: 40% gyroid. Solid is fine. The part is small.
Frame: Lens opening up. Tree supports, build plate only. No brim if supports are on.
Temples: On their side. Hinge hole vertical. 6 mm brim.
Pads and gauge: Flat. No supports.
Bed: 180 mm minimum. The gauge is 170 mm. A temple is 156 mm.
Heat: Use the temperature printed on the spool. ASA wants an enclosure. Dry nylon before you print it.

Files

Order: print the gauge and decide the scale, then pads, temples, and frame. Cut the lens from the template, ease the edge, spring it in from the front. A drop of clear silicone at the corners keeps it seated. Do not solvent-weld it. Pin the hinges. Do not flame-polish polycarbonate.

Same material class as a sport lens and an outdoor frame. Not the same object. A flat sheet sprung into the wrap will distort. This is not impact-rated, and it is not safety glasses. Wearing the printed template is how the lens fails.

Created by AdventureNLearn